Author: Diagonal (page 2 of 2)

The Nobel Jewellery Prize 2014

The 10th of December is the anniversary of Alfred Nobel’s death. Here in Sweden we commemorate the Nobel Day – and this is also the date when the Nobel Prize ceremony takes place.

This is the fourth year that we take the matter into our own hands and award prizes to outstanding artists and individuals devoted to the art jewellery field. Ok, we won’t stall the excitement any longer – here we go!

This year the Chemistry Nobel Prize was given to Eric Betzig, Stefan Hell and William Moerner for their research on super high resolution microscopy, which with high precision makes it possible to see nano scale details, for example in virus and bacteria.

We will award the 2014 Nobel Jewellery Prize in Chemistry to Carina Chitsaz-Shoshtary. Chitsaz-Shoshtary brings out details that have been covered in layers of graffiti paint. She reveals treasures and put them together creating new shapes that gives unexpected synergy effects.


Carina Chitsaz-Shoshtary “Medulla 3″, necklace, 2014. Cactus, graffiti, silver.
Photo: Laurens Burro

The 2014 Nobel Prize in physics acknowledge an invention that has revolutionized the modern technology. Isamu Akasaki, Hiroshi Amano and Shuji Nakamura gets the prize for their energy-saving and bright diodes. In other words – it was all about light and energy this year, and we follow the same line when we give the 2014 Nobel Jewellery Prize in Physics to Nhat-Vu Dang. Nhat-Vu Dang has been experimenting with light and colour, inspired by plants’ way of using sun rays, adjusting their position in order to get the most of the valuable sun energy. His work puts focus on how to find new ways to use nature’s techniques for sustainable development.


Nhat-Vu Dang, Blooming Rose / Brooch, 2014.
Rigid Foam, Lacquer, Paint, Glue, PVC, Plexiglass, Remanium Steel

John O’Keefe, May-Britt Moser and Edvard Moser got the Nobel Prize in medicine for their discoveries on how our sense of direction and our memory works.

We will give the Nobel Jewellery Prize in Medicine to Amy Tavern. Her jewellery work captures memories. Processed and transformed they are reinterpreted by the viewer and become platforms for discussions and new ideas. The installation “Departing Ship” paints a melancholic and beautiful picture of Alzheimer’s disease. A help to ease and to process the sickness of a loved one.

DepartingShipdetailAmy Tavern, Departing Ship, 2014
68 Navy pea coat buttons, safety pins
Photo: Hank Drew

Patrick Modiano from France got the Nobel Prize in literature. With the motivation “For the art of memory with which he has evoked the most ungraspable human destinies and uncovered the life-world of the occupation”.

We would like to honour the Finnish artist Tarja Tuupanen with the 2014 Nobel Jewellery Prize in literature. Tuupanen is a master of stones. Out of agate, granite, marble and quartz she brings out shapes that reveals the raw soul of the stone and tells its history.


Tarja Tuupanen, necklace 2014
Ready-made marble tableware, velour sticker, steelwire, brass
Photo: Lassi Rinno

The 2014 Prize in Economic Sciences in Memory of Alfred Nobel was given to Jean Tirole for his analysis of market power, a research providing tools to discover and control the influence of too dominant actors.
We give the Nobel Jewellery Prize 2014 in economy to Current Obsession. This magazine spread the rich and wonderful world of contemporary jewellery to places where it has not been seen before, breaking up the monopoly of the CJ-sphere.


Current Obsession #3 The Fake Issue
Cover image by Lonneke van der Palen

The Nobel Peace Prize was given to Malala Yousafzai and Kailash Satyarthi for their brave and important work against oppression of children and for young people’s right to education.

Education leads to understanding and knowledge. It makes it possible for more people to take part in a democratic discussion and it provides tools to prevent conflicts. We will award the Nobel Jewellery Peace Prize 2014 to Mah Rana for the project Meanings and Attachments which offers a platform for discussions about jewellery as a part of our lives. A platform where people can participate regardless age, sex, cultural background or “CJ-experience”.

Jenny_mima 2006

Jenny, 2006
“The meaning of the necklace is love, that I hold the power to find love.
Photo by Mah Rana


We would like to thank all of you Jewellery Prize winners for your inspiring work. You definitely deserve a banquette and a fat prize check – we hope that day soon will come!

Gothenburg Schmuckalized

In September, we were walking around with a slight feeling of disorientation. One week, during the two day seminar New Adventures in Jewellery, there were 13 art jewellery exhibitions happening simultaneously in Gothenburg along with an extensive seminar program, performances and other events! It felt like the Munich Schmuck-week, right here in the north.

The exhibition programme actually started in May and it is running until mid November, in conjunction with From the Coolest Corner; Nordic Jewellery at the Röhsska Museum. Here are some shots from what has been going on in town:


running around town with the exhibition programme.


exhibition “Hello, I am Jewellery by Mah Rana”.


Mah Rana did a continuation of her project Meanings & Attachments on three locations in Gothenburg.
Here with students from HDK Jewellery Art Department.


Mechanical paper piece by Charlotte Maslov / SAK SAMMA


Exhibition “Garaget” curated by Tore Svensson featuring Charlotte Maslov,
Hanna Liljenberg, Klara Brynge, Mikael Sellersjö & Åsa Christensson


“To make order” performance by Sanna Lindholm & Pia Gyll


Märta Mattsson “The Sweet Perfume of Decay”, Sintra

19-20th September the New Adventures in Jewellery Seminar took place at HDK and offered an interesting, dynamic program. Ursula Ilse-Neuman, Susan Pietzsch, Mah Rana, Damian Skinner and Claudia Betancourt & Nano Pulgar from Walka Studio were the invited keynote speakers. To top that off the organizatory team had held an open call for 10 minutes spots in the program. For the open call four presenters were selected: Carla Castiajo, Gemma Draper, Anvita Jain Kriz and Bórax08001 (Carolina Gimeno & Nelly Van Oost).

Damian Skinner was sharp as always and gave the most provoking speech, offering a new point of view on the field of art jewelry by placing the wearer in focus. He also painted a clear image of how the history of art jewelry has been distorted in the history books due to eurocentrism in the field.

It was very interesting to hear Anvita Jain from project Bawra talk about the jewelry scene in India, one of the worlds biggest producers of commercial and traditional jewellery. Ursula Illse Neuman gave us a portrait of the history of photography used in the world of art jewellery. She introduced interesting artists and pieces and the lecture included many american artists that were new to our still quite euro centrated eyes.


Carolina Gimeno & Nelly Van Oost from Bórax08001 talked about  their project “Jewellery Displaced “with live jewellery interventions in the streets. The team spoke from from a strong point of view that art jewellery is supposed to be experienced by people, watching, touching and wearing and that jewellery belongs on the body.

“It is necessary to spread the word about what we are doing in a larger perspective. The goal of Borax is to provoke awareness and get more people loving what we are doing. “

At the end of the talk Bórax08001 presented a short clip from their new movie presenting the intervention in Paris 2013.


More information:

A confession of failure (eventually we will win their hearts!)



Our latest venture is the art project and group exhibition United States of Sweden. A peculiar name perhaps? Well, this exhibition is in a way a continuation of the project A Pieceful Swedish Smörgåsbord that we did in 2011.

As jewelers our background, hometown and heritage are prominent sources of inspiration. When we got the offer to make a show during New Adventures in Jewellery it felt natural to dig deeper into this theme. We joined forces with with three of our colleagues; Pernilla Persson, Hanna Liljenberg and Linnéa Eriksson. From a viewers point, we are a homogeneous group – trained in the same school, same age, female and closely connected to the regions where we grew up and now all living in Gothenburg. Still we have different languages and styles in what we make.

Ok, but what about the new adventures part of this? New Adventures in Jewellery had the mission to investigate new ways of working with jewellery and how the field can benefit by taking influences from other fields of the arts. We decided that we were going to do a traditional exhibition in a gallery space and show jewellery inspired by nature. You can’t really get more traditional than that in Nordic art jewellery, so what were we thinking? To a lot of people art jewellery is a “new adventure”, being the unknown artfield that it is. We went for a hands on approach. We selected a group of 30 people that we didn’t know but we thought would have a latent interest in art jewellery because of their profession and social engagement. We wrote them a letter inviting them, together with a friend, to an evening of art jewellery, wine, food and mingle in the gallery. We wrote the cards by hand for the personal touch, kissed the envelopes goodbye and hoped for the best when we sent them off. Then we waited. No reply. Well that is not exactly true, we did get three replies from people that couldn’t come. Other than that, silence. You might ask us what we expected when intruding into strangers lifes like that, asking them to take time out of their busy lives. We know that is a lot to ask, but it was worth a shot, it could have worked.

bild (15)

bild (16)

We contacted people that were beyond our social network, with no natural connection to us. Maybe it would have been easier if we knew the people we invited, something that could have assured them that this would not be just a few spoiled hours, or at least make them feel a “social responsibility” to come.

opening_USSFrom the opening of United States of Sweden at Four

Swedish jeweler Gunilla Grahn is taking another approach in order to get people to engage with jewellery art. She has initiated the project Jewellery as a Guest. In this project she curates jewellery shows in peoples homes. The house owner becomes the link between art, curator and the visitors.

Next guest appearance is planned in Stockholm the coming weekend and both of us have sent pieces to be shown. It will be interesting to hear the outcome of these events. Meanwhile we will plot the next step to increase the interest in craft and art jewellery.

Art Jewellery the Italian way

Fondazione Cominelli has been organizing the Cominelli Awards since 2010. The project is curated by Maria Rosa Franzin and Rossella Tornquist for AGC* together with Rosanna Padrini Dolcini for the Foundation. Goldsmiths artists and designers from all over the world can apply with work in any material, shape, colour and technique, the only restriction is that the measurements cannot exceed 15x15cm and the work must not be more than two years old.

IMG_0688Karin_Roy_Andersson_Catching_Big_Fish_yellow_braceletBracelet by Karin Roy Andersson, recycled plastics from shampoo- and mustard bottle, textile

 This year’s selection was made by the professor of Escola Massana in Barcelona – Ramon Puig Cuyàs. We are proud to have our own Karin Roy among the 34 artists selected for the exhibition. Out of the group, three artists were awarded with the 2014 Cominelli Prize: Silke Trekel, Jessica Turrell and Trinidad Contreras.  A special mention was given to Gabi Veit, Babette Von Dohnanyi and Flora Vagi.


All works are presented in Palazzo Cominelli, a beautiful villa offering a fantastic view of lake Garda. As if the visitors were not filled up with the jewellery and the landscape, the Fondazione Cominelli has also been cooperating with local wine and food producers and during the opening night we were served with all kinds of Italian specialties. Combined with loud jewellery discussions, laughter and and all the additional art jewellery worn by the guests at the opening, it was a pure pleasure for all senses.


The morning after the opening we attended a lecture by Graziano Visintin, since 1976 professor at the Istituto Pietro Selvatico in Padua. Graziano Visintin, born1952 is one of the teachers of the goldsmith  department  founded  by Mario Pinton during the 1960’ which in 1983 was named the Padua School.

Mario Pinton was born in 1919 and studied at Istituto Pietro Selvatico where he later became a teacher. He led the students to develop work that was individual and unique, focusing more on artistic expression than serial production. The use of gold, geometrical shapes and elaborated craft skills is one of the fundamental features of the Padua School.

Graziano Visintin has during his long career been investigating lines and pure forms. By giving them a small twist he creates astonishing pieces.

visintin 2Brooch by Graziano Visintin gold 18ct and enamel

visintin 3Necklace by Graziano Visintin, gold 18ct and enamel.Measure, equilibrium, simplicity but above all, vocation to geometry creates the quality of shape in apparently simple objects.” – Graziano Visintin

Graziano Visintin has developed special technique using niello*, a black alloy of copper, silver and lead sulphides which give the clear golden surfaces a new dimension. A raw playful expression, emphasizing the strict shapes.

visintin 1Brooch by Graziano Visintin, gold and niello

The Fondazione Cominelli is also building a permanent collection of contemporary jewellery; each edition will enrich the collection with new works, some by the competition participants and others by artists selected by the gallerist Rita Marcangelo from Alternatives The permanent collection will become a document of the Fondazione Cominelli. In this collection you can see also a piece of Sanna Svedestedt, selected for Cominelli awards in 2011.


The world of jewellery is not only fantastic pieces. Meeting with the warm and generous people in Garda showed that the Italian jewellery culture is world class also on many other levels. We returned to Sweden inspired and ready for New Adventures!

*The Fondazione Cominelli is sided by AGC – Contemporary Jewellery Association, which organises and promotes the event. AGC also promotes other projects on the national territory. One of the main objectives of AGC is drawing attention to the value of the contemporary jewellery culture and spreading

* Niello, obtained by the fusion of silver, copper, lead, sulphur and borax, is an alloy that was well known by the Egyptians. Visintin use it as a colour or to contrast the gold. He describes it as “writings on the object”.

With support by The Swedish Arts Grants Committeé



From the Coolest Corner

It is hot in Göteborg, we have just had a couple of what weathermen call tropical nights when the temperature does not go below 30 degrees. One way to cool down physically and raise your emotional temperature is to visit the exhibition From the Coolest Corner at the Röhsska museum. This ambitious project showcase contemporary jewellery from 60 Nordic makers. The attempt is to show the current regional developments within the art field.


Elise Hatlø
Brooch: Grandma signs the blues, silver, copper, smoky quartz, agate, silk, lacquer

The show started in Oslo and travelled around Scandinavia, the final destination is Munich March 2015. In the version of Röhsska the works are exhibited in airy cabinets, giving space to all of the individual works. It is not an easy task to display this amount of work but overall it is a successful display where all piece are given the same attention.

When we walk around in the exhibition it is a chance to see our ffavourites live. But what about all of those who don’t know the work as well as we do and perhaps see art jewellery for the first time? The information provided gives a hint, but there is no further description of the different works and of the concepts behind them. This exhibition demands a lot from the visitors. We hope for a future where museums have more resources to develop ways to make it easier for visitors to take part of the artist’s visions and ideas behind the jewellery on display.



fcc_5Lillian Eliassen, necklaces
left: “Courage”, casting clay, copper
right: “Every road is just another way home”, casting clay & silver

 fcc_4Anna Rikkinen, necklace
“A Dutch Encounter V,” lacquered wood paper & yarn


fcc_10 (1)



Late night photo shoot

We have now announce our new project Alkemisterna at Klimt02. So excited we had to do a little midnight dance
(yes, sun is still shining, it is a Nordic summer night!)



Next Level Craft

The European Capital of Culture 2014 is Umeå, a town in north of Sweden. This is celebrated by presenting many different kind of exhibitions and events all around the region. One of them is Next Level Craft, an exhibition that aims to show craft in a fresh, modern way by mixing “street art, high fashion, pop culture and electronic music with everything from wool embroidery, weaving and felting to root binding, turning and birch bark braiding”.

The modern intention is made obvious with a display illuminated by neon lights and the electronic soundtrack composed by Elias Grind playing in the background. Next level Craft presents a variety of beautiful, well made pieces that are interesting and fantasy stimulating, but the display is contra productive. The neon lights hides a lot of the pieces’ details and makes it hard to discover their full dimensions. Some of the work are shown on white display dummies looking like they could have been used for selling low price garments for children, and the curatorial idea of creating a magic wedding (between the different expressions? ) turns out more like an abandoned playground.


nextlevelcraft2Wood crystals by Felix Wink

nextlevelcraft4Textile sculpture by Helena Hörstedt

nextlevelcraft1Neckpiece by Hanna Hedman

nextlevelcraft7Neckpieces by Hanna Hedman


An interesting example of how to combine traditional craft with new art expressions is the movie Slöjd + Voguing = Sant! made by the curator of the exhibition Aia Jüdes especially for this project. Two of Sweden’s best vogue dancers, Anna ”Ninja” Näsström and Fredrik Quiñones, performs a battle to the beats and sounds of sloyd, supported by a strong crew of crafters.



Introducing Alkemisterna

During 2014 Diagonal is working on pilot video of Alkemisterna that will later become a series of episodes presenting the innovative, skilled, creative, intelligent and absolutely wonderful world of traditional craft and contemporary jewellery.

In today’s society of mass consumption, time consuming techniques and craft is rare. We want to raise questions about sustainability, about the value of time spent on creating unique objects by hand and how to keep slow craft techniques alive.

Sanna Svedestedt, Karin Roy Andersson, Alkemisterna, Contemporary Jewellery, Jewelllery Art, craft

When it comes to food culture we have seen a strong trend of “slow food” and we start to see a similar hype when it comes to clothes, furniture, everyday use objects and jewellery. We want to do our best to put some air into that smouldering fire. In the future we hope that we will choose quality, originality and sustainability over quantity and quickly passing trends.

Newer posts